We’ve all seen Lance
Armstrong spin his trademark high cadence up the mountains while his
counterparts turn bigger gears.Because of his great success and specific riding style, more and more
cyclists are paying increased attention to pedaling cadence and proper gear
selection.In particular, many
riders often ask how they can improve their pedaling cadence on the
hills.
Many times a rider’s
ability to use an appropriate cadence is dependent upon the bike’s gearing.Often, traditional gearing forces a
rider to use too low of a cadence while climbing.The traditional combination of 53 and 39
tooth chainrings with a 12-23 tooth cassette seems to work well for
professionals, but such gearing is not ideal for all riders.Fortunately, bike manufacturers are
catching on and making adjustments to component specifications.Whether you are looking for a new bike
or simply wanting to upgrade your current bike, it is important to consider the
gearing that it offers.However,
before making any changes it is important to understand the physiology of
pedaling cadence and how your gearing affects it.
Physiology of Pedaling
Cadence
Using a slightly lower
gear with a faster cadence can be more efficient than riding a higher gear with
a slower cadence. The difference in efficiency is due to the unique
physiological demands of each style.A high cadence pedaling style involves frequent, low muscular force
productions while a low cadence pedaling style is comprised of less frequent,
but more forceful muscular contractions.Since the slower cadence requires more muscular force per each pedal
stroke, a greater percentage of fast twitch muscle fibers are recruited. Fast twitch muscles are not as efficient
in their use of glycogen, so your body’s energy resources are drained more
quickly when they are used.This
can lead to increased fatigue late into your rides. During a stage race or when
training frequency is high this becomes very important since stresses are
compounded from one day to the next.On the other hand, the relatively low muscular force used with a high
cadence relies more heavily on the slow twitch fibers, which are more
aerobically efficient in using the body’s energy stores to produce
work.
Typically, a cyclist
will be most efficient with a cadence of 80 to 90 revolutions per minute (RPM).
Cadences lower than 80 RPM require greater muscular forces, while cadences over
100 RPM place a higher demand on the aerobic system.Incorporating low and high cadence
workouts into your routine will have you best prepared for your goals, though a
majority of your riding should be done with an average cadence of 80 to 90
RPM.
If you ride in a hilly
area and are not able to maintain a cadence of 80 to 90 RPM for the majority of
your rides, it would be beneficial to modify your bicycle’s
gearing.
Gearing
Options
The first solution to
the gearing problem came with the advent of the road triple crankset.Similar to the three chainring
combination found on mountain bikes, this option allows riders to use
substantially smaller gears when climbing steep roads. It has become common for
bike manufacturers to spec entry-level road bikes or touring bikes with triple
chainrings.Cyclists doing long
rides or tours often take advantage of the triple gearing as it is ideal for
vastly changing terrain, as well as giving the legs a break after many hours or
days in the saddle.A triple
chainring is also a great option for average riders who don’t want to mash 40-50
RPMs up hills.Triple chainring
setups have had a negative stigma attached to them, as some riders think it will
make them appear “weak”, but they’ve become more acceptable as people realize
that the benefits outweigh the grief that they may receive from their riding
partners.The added weight and
seeming complexity of a triple chainring setup may be the only things preventing
its further popularity.
A relatively new
alternative is the compact crank.Using a double chainring configuration with fewer teeth per ring, riders
are able to capitalize on new gear ranges.Compact cranks are finally coming to the forefront as a viable option for
riders of all abilities to consider.Anyone living in mountainous or hilly terrain should give serious thought
to the benefits of a compact crankset.Rather than using the standard 130mm Bolt Circle Diameter (BCD), compact
cranks have a smaller 110mm BCD that allows for smaller chainrings.Compact cranks commonly have a 50 tooth
large ring mated with a 34 or 36 tooth inner ring. These smaller rings allow for
lower gearing and a higher climbing cadence. With this setup you not only have
an additional lower gear, but also a higher gear (when compared to a traditional
set up of a 53/39 crankset with a 12-25 cassette).This wider effective gear range is
accomplished with fewer duplicate gears.Riders as well as racers are beginning to appreciate the gearing of a
compact crank.Only very powerful
sprinters or criterium racers that routinely use the 53x11 will be hampered by
the having just 50 teeth on the big ring; for most racers this is not a
concern.A 53x11 gear will
give you 126.6 gear inches when using a 175mm crank and 23mm tires on 700c
wheels. This is slightly larger than the 119.5 gear inches of a 50x11.We should also consider the difference
in gearing at the low end. A standard 39x23 yields 44.6 gear inches while the
34x23 offers a gear of 38.8 inches. If you switch to a compact crank, but leave
your same cassette you’ll essentially lose your biggest gear, but gain two lower
gears.
Of course, you can
simply swap out your rear cassette to give yourself easier gearing options. Your
cassette will likely have cogs of 11 or 12 teeth ranging up to cogs of 21, 23,
25, or 27 teeth. Standard cassettes are usually a 12-23 or 12-25. Switching to a
larger cassette could be the most cost effective way to achieve a suitable
climbing cadence. A 12-25 or 12-27 cassette might make all the difference you
need in achieving optimal gearing that allows for an efficient climbing
cadence.
So what gearing option
is most suitable for your riding?There are a couple of important considerations.First, are most of your rides on flat
roads, in the mountains, or somewhere in between?Second, what is your current fitness
level?A Cat I racer will be able
to use standard gears with an optimal cadence while riding up most climbs.In this situation there is little or no
need for lower gearing.If you are
very fit or ride mostly flat to gently rolling terrain, a standard double
crankset with a standard rear cassette will likely work just fine.However, if you’re a novice rider,
someone who often does long rides, or a beginner racer, the lower gears of a
triple or compact crank may be helpful.Riders and racers living in very hilly or mountainous areas, serious and
novice alike, prefer the versatility of a compact crankset coupled with an 11-23
cassette. Touring or recreational riders may prefer the even smaller gear ratios
that come with a triple chainring configuration. The smaller third ring
typically will have 30 teeth, giving its rider a very low gearing option for the
steepest of climbs.
Changing Out Your
Gears
Now that you have an
idea of what gearing to look for, you can confidently select the appropriate
gearing for you. The following will provide a brief overview of what each
conversion will require if you are looking to upgrade your current bike.
Switching to a compact
crank setup is really quite simple.In most instances, the only necessary purchase is of the crankset
itself.Once the new crank is
installed you will have to reposition the front derailleur and properly shorten
the chain to accommodate for the smaller chainrings.Standard front derailleurs are designed
to work with a 14-tooth drop between rings. Even though a 50x34 setup has a
16-tooth drop, proper shifting can be achieved since the rings are smaller and
the physical gap is nearly the same. Still, some people have had trouble using a
standard front derailleur with their compact rings so companies are now
producing foolproof compact specific front derailleurs.With
these adjustments made you should have a smooth working setup. The price of a
quality compact crank with chainrings will start at around
$250.
Converting to a triple
crank setup is a more expensive and mechanically involved process. You will need
to purchase the crankset, bottom bracket, front derailleur, front shift/brake
lever, chain, and a rear derailleur. A triple-compatible front derailleur will
allow for the greater chain movement, while the triple-specific shift lever will
have the extra detents necessary for the third chainring. The new bottom bracket
will be wider so that the chainrings will be aligned properly with the frame. A
long cage rear derailleur is necessary to accommodate for the increased chain
wrap that the setup requires. The new chain will be longer than the original to
fit the longer cage derailleur.This combination of parts will likely cost you anywhere from $350 on
up.
Switching to a different
rear cassette is the most economical approach; quality cassettes will range in
price from $40 on up. With a few tools, you or your mechanic will have the new
cassette ready to go within five minutes. Just be sure that your rear derailleur
and chain length can accommodate the larger rear cogs.
Whatever your approach,
make an attempt to have the proper gearing on your bike. Not only will an
appropriate climbing cadence allow greater comfort, but you’ll be more efficient
as well.With the right gearing,
Lance will no longer be the only one able to spin up the mountains.
